November 26, 2013
Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier collaborated with Italy’s Pomellato to create the jeweler’s first range of watches that connect the world of fine jewelry design and watchmaking for female consumers.
The four-piece “Tonda Pomellato” capsule collection was inspired by Parmigiani’s Tonda watches and is set in Pomellato’s signature rose gold. The joint endeavour is likely to attract enthusiasts of both brands due to the collection’s use of signature characteristics and well-known watch design.
"I think for each company, it emphasizes both luxury and quality," said Paula Rosenblum, managing partner at RSR Research, Boston. "In an era of smart watches and watches that have designer labels and mass-produced parts, it creates an aura of quality both inside and out.
"This just adds visibility to both companies across each others’ customer bases," she said.
"Pomellato's first watch re-emphasizes their commitment not just to good looks, but to craftsmanship, both inside and out."
Ms. Rosenblum is not affiliated with Parmigiani or Pomellato, but agreed to comment as an industry expert.
Pomellato was unable to comment before press deadline while Parmigiani did not respond by press time.
First timers
The collaboration between Pomellato and Parmigiani is looking to “redefine the realm of ladies’ watches” by bringing together the expertise of both brands, according to a joint statement.
Both Kering-owned Pomellato and Parmigiani shared the news of its collaboration on its respective Facebook pages accompanied by an image of a watch found in the capsule collection. This collection will be the first watch available by Pomellato.
Parmigiani Facebook post
The Tonda Pomellato capsule collection’s design was inspired by Parmigiani’s Tonda 1950 watch in rose gold. This model was likely chosen for the collaboration due to its status as one of Parmigiani’s more iconic watches.
Tonda Pomellato is available with four different faces. Three of the four faces features a “chiaroscuro” Baroque pattern of light and dark filigrees inspired by Pomellato’s Arabesque collection and is available in white, black or white encrusted with a ring of diamonds.
Pomellato Tonda in white
The fourth watch face is made of a bright turquoise stone inspired by Pomellato’s Capri collection which uses various shades of the Mediterranean Sea. The turquoise Pomellato Tonda is also encrusted with a ring of diamonds around its dial.
Tonda Pomellato in turquoise
Pomellato Tonda will be available in a 150-piece reserve at fourteen Parmigiani boutiques and select Pomellato locations. The collection ranges in price from $21,548 to $31,000.
If well received, the collaboration may continue in the opposite direction with Pomellato developing jewelry for Parmigiani, according to WWD.
Boosting appeal
Due to the horology industry being associated with predominantly male consumers, watchmakers have targeted women in a variety of ways.
For example, Swiss watchmaker Richard Mille targeted affluent female consumers with two new partnerships that embed the brand in women’s golf and demonstrate its commitment to top-tier performance in sports.
The watchmaker has become the major partner in the Lacoste Ladies Open Tournament and selected golf champion Diana Luna as the brand’s first female sporting partner. Delving into a sport with an event partnership and brand ambassador will give the brand much exposure at the event (see story).
Additionally, Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre targeted wealthy, female consumers through an emotional campaign starring German actress Diane Kruger.
To celebrate its 180th anniversary this year, the watchmaker is adding to its Rendez-Vous and Reverso women’s collections to make them appeal to the modern woman. Jaeger-LeCoultre also launched a film called “Reinvent Yourself” in collaboration with Ms. Kruger that focuses on the multifaceted personality of women (see story).
Collaborations are ideal for exposure and can help a brand reach a new audience.
"The operative word is synergy, I think," Ms. Rosenblum said. "Synergies between beauty and quality craftsmanship because so many watches are mass produced.
"They might even cost a lot, but if they’re carrying a designer brand name, more often than not the production has been outsourced to a company that buys the watch works from a less-than-high-quality producer," she said. "Doesn’t mean the watches won’t run for a while, in fact, that’s the dilemma of high-quality watchmakers, they can’t really guarantee they’ll last longer than less-expensive versions.
"The shopper has to get hooked on the cachet and inherent quality. I’d not heard of Parmigiani Fleurier. Now I have. If I see an ad for it, or see it on display, I’ll have a better sense of its lineage and affinities."
Final Take
Jen King, editorial assistant on Luxury Daily, New York
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