November 30, 2016
As Raf Simons prepares to show his first collection for Calvin Klein, the label is ushering in some changes to its runway format.
The brand’s fall/winter 2016 show during New York Fashion Week in February will feature both men’s and women’s wear. Calvin Klein’s announcement came just a day after Bottega Veneta made a similar move, pointing to the potential for more co-ed runways (see story).
Mr. Simons took the helm at the brand in August as chief creative officer.
The designer, who exited his lead design role at Dior last fall, is now in charge of all Calvin Klein labels, from its runway Calvin Klein Collection to its Calvin Klein Underwear, overseeing design as well as marketing and communications. With this appointment, Calvin Klein is uniting all of its entities under a singular vision, enabling the brand to ensure cohesion (see story).
Ahead of Mr. Simons’ joining the label, Calvin Klein said it was shifting its creative strategy, placing the entire brand under one person’s vision, excusing women’s wear creative director Francisco Costa and menswear head Italo Zucchelli from their respective posts (see story).
As noted by Vogue, Mr. Costa used to present in the penultimate time slot during New York Fashion Week. Under Mr. Simons’ direction, the brand will show on Feb. 10 at 10 a.m., placing it in one of the earliest positions during the week.
Mr. Simons’ eponymous menswear is also undergoing changes, presenting in the United States for the first time during New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Feb. 1, diverting from its usual Paris.
Calvin Klein's announcement adds fuel to a trend that has seen brands such as Burberry, Gucci and Vivienne Westwood choosing to show their men's and women's collections simultaneously.